RSSAt Falls Church's Open Kitchen, endless possibilities
Living anywhere near Open Kitchen could be dangerous, both to your girth and pocketbook. That's because this unique newcomer to the local food scene disproves the notion that it is impossible to be all things for all people and do it well.
Open Kitchen is more than a spot to grab a quick latte and fresh-baked pastry at 6 in the morning -- you can stop by for a cup of soup and sandwich for lunch, fish steamed in a paper bag (a popular French method called "en papillote") for dinner or a decadent, wonderful dessert. And, of course, there's always carefully selected wine to go along with whatever meal you choose.
Open Kitchen is also a place to take the occasional hands-on cooking lesson (such as with your family); have a personal chef prepare a home-delivered meal; have your office and dinner parties catered by a staff of professionals; or even rent kitchen space so you can start your own cooking business.
For months after the sign appeared above the ground floor storefront in a building behind the McDonald's at Shreve Road and Route 7, it was not clear what Open Kitchen was going to be. The polished blond wood interior with butcher block tables and a long counter with seating facing an open kitchen was promising, the splashy décor inviting and the potted herbs suggestive, but only after the official opening some two months ago and the first tastes of the fresh-baked bread was it clear Open Kitchen would be a community treasure.
Take a bite -- it probably doesn't matter of what -- and you'll understand. The roasted eggplant and tomato soup is so smooth and skillfully seasoned you may not want to try the other soups. The herb-crusted tuna burger with wasabi mayo will only reinforce the first impression that these chefs know what they are doing. Searing tuna so that it remains moist and tender is an art, but seasoning it with cracked pepper, sea salt and thyme and topping it with greens and carrots and encasing it in a brioche bun achieves an unexpected balance of taste and texture balance -- and utter perfection.
Indeed, every dish tried so far has managed to incorporate a touch of the unexpected, just one more reason Open Kitchen could be habit-forming.
Ingredients are local and seasonal, so the menu will change, as will the daily specials. If the salt-baked pineapple happens to be offered for dessert, don't hesitate. The waitress joked that the dish -- paper-thin slices of juicy pineapple, topped with a sauce of pineapple, orange and Grand Marnier and a scoop of ice cream -- is so good that people say they want to lick their plates. Maybe manners prohibit licking, but at least ask for a spoon so not one bit is wasted.
It is hard to believe that Open Kitchen owes its inspiration to frustration. According to the restaurant's Web site, Hue-Chen Karels couldn't find an affordable, licensed commercial kitchen to rent after she was encouraged by her co-owner husband John Karels to start a cookie business. The space's two fully equipped kitchens may have been the impetus, but the Karels' vision soon expanded. The Open Kitchen staff now includes French-born executive chef Bernard Henry and a full complement of experienced kitchen professionals to prepare meals and teach classes.
For one final plus, the staff is friendly, enthusiastic, knowledgeable, attentive and efficient. All that, and super food -- what more could one ask?