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Heavenly heirloom
About 10 years ago, I discovered a vendor at a Maryland farmers’ market who was selling varieties of tomatoes few had ever heard of, such as Old Flames, Brandywines, and Valencias; the Tangerines, Pineapples, and Giant Oxhearts; and the Mortgage Lifters, Yellow Bells, and Pruden’s Purples, to name a few of the thousands of heirloom varieties still in existence. These came in colors—black, purple, green-striped, orange, yellow, and even white—and shapes that seemed bizarre and certainly did not conform to supermarket standards. Her bins overflowed around mid-August, and customers caught on to her secret: heirloom tomatoes. She often sold out within an hour, and the trick was to arrive early.
Attaining heirloom status for tomatoes means that the variety’s seeds have been passed along for generations, at least since the early 1940s, and generally, for much longer than that. What really sets heirlooms apart from their hybrid cousins, however, say tomato fanciers, is flavor. One Virginia tomato grower once noted that heirlooms have the taste essence of “tomato,” the taste that old-timers recognize from the days when a tomato tasted like, well, a tomato.
Of course, years ago a handful of other farmers had heirlooms on offer, but this Maryland stand had taken up the tomato challenge in earnest. Now any savvy farmer plants them for their seasonal sales boost, much to the consumers delight. Even such markets as Whole Foods makes sure to stock them in tomato season, but your farm stand is your best source: after all, they are freshly picked, and local. But tomato fanciers should keep one fact in mind: heirloom tomato season is short, maybe 30 to 40 days for field-grown tomatoes. So stock up now while the season lasts.
Bread and Heirloom Tomato Salad
Serves 4
A takeoff of the Tuscan panzanella (bread salad), and inspired by master baker Peter Reinhart’s bread salad recipe, this summer special showcases the heirloom in as many different colors and sizes as you can find. It’s so colorful and delicious that you may end up eating it every day until tomato season ends. Trouble is, the tomatoes lose their glamour when chilled so eat and make it at one sitting—if possible. Select a flavorful baguette for the best results.
About 2 pounds heirloom tomatoes, cubed as needed
2 to 3 cups bread cubes
1 cup pitted kalamata olives or ½ cup pitted niçoise olives
¼ cup julienned fresh basil leaves
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
½ cup sliced pepperoncini
¼ to 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon minced garlic, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Combine the tomatoes, bread cubes, olive, basil leaves, feta, and pepperoncini in a large salad or mixing bowl. Mix together the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, salt, and pepper, stirring well. Pour over the tomatoes, tossing to combine. Set aside for 15 minutes so the bread can absorb the dressing before serving.
mmmmmmmm I love tomatoes! Sounds like a good recipe thanks!!!
Posted by S_Ecoe
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